Some of My Favorite Local Products

Local Wonderful Things

As 2014 prepares to make its exit, I wanted to highlight local folks who are producing some wonderful new products.  When you get a chance to catch your breath - and maybe shop for your own goodies? - check out these wonderful new additions to our world of great food.

Parable Flavors - These folks are shaking up the dried herb mixture world, and I couldn't be happier   With each herb mix from these folks you get a story pertaining to the mix (Parable?  Get it?) and a recipe. The dried mixes are amazing combinations using some familiar ingredients like, cilantro, oregano, parsley, and also some rather new to most of us, like French Breakfast Radish Powder.  They admit sourcing from wherever they can procure the very best, but they make these wonderful mixes right here in Philadelphia on E. Cumberland Street.  I recently mixed some "Franglais" with Sour Cream and some chopped onion and let it sit in my refrigerator overnight.  With some really good local potato chips, I had fantastic Onion Dip - no cardboard soup mix needed.  I know for sure that Parable Flavors are available at Fair Food Farmstand.  Keep an eye out for them in other stores as well.

Food and Ferments - If you read anything about food trends, you know that fermentation is back - and in a big way.  Fermentation is a centuries old technique and it is good for you!  And tasty! And nobody does it better than Food and Ferments.  I start every day with a shot or two of their Beet Kvass.  I am not a juicer by any  means.  I like my Kale cooked or crisped, but definitely not in a shake with fruit! But this Beet Kvass?  I have to have it.  It is both delicious and healthy.  The sauerkrauts and kimchi handcrafted in Philadelphia by Food and Ferments is delicious and the culinary possibilities are endless.  They also produce Kombucha and seasonal vegetable pickles.  You will find their products at Fair Food Farmstand and a number of local Farmers' Markets.  I sincerely hope to see them regularly at my Market, Head House, next season.

Love Bar - Chocolate.  Chocolate sauces.  Chocolate Bars.  Local, artisanal chocolate. Love Bar Chocolate is the only "bean to bar" producer in the city.  I am particularly addicted to the sauces.  Over ice cream, pound cake or right from the jar for a quick chocolate hit, they do not ever disappoint.  Love Bar products are available at Capogiro Gelato, Shane's Candies, and Head House Farmers Market (in season).

PB & Jams - You like Peanut Butter?  Have you gotten tired, as I have, looking for "pure" peanut butter?  Look no more.  These folks are sourcing as much as they can locally - of course, the Philly region is not known for nuts (hold that thought!) - and their nut butters are amazing.  I love the "classic" peanut butter but the "Hot or Not" was a revelation.  The sweet and spicy blend is fantastic used in all of the usual ways, and I also like to dollop it over hot Asian noodles, toss, add some chopped scallions and you have an easy and totally delicious dish.  PB & Jams is available at Farmers Markets, and speciality stores in our area.  When you find it, stock up.  See?  Just writing this, I find that I need to go spread some "Hot or Not" on a nice piece of celery!

Spruce Hill Preserves - I think I actually walked past a selection of Spruce Hill products awhile back.  I shall never do that again!  These are preserves kicked up way past a notch!  These jams and preserves are made with local and seasonal ingredients. All of Spruce Hill's products are so much better than anything you could buy commercially - you won't go back. My favorite right now is the Maple Bourbon Smoked Apple Butter.  You read that right:  maple, bourbon, smoked.  It is wonderful in a number of uses, even though I find myself having a spoonful or two all by itself on a regular basis.  Try this particular preserve basted on a roasting chicken for the last five minutes it's in the oven.  You can thank me later.   Spruce Hill Preserves are at Metropolitan Bakery locations and other speciality stores.  Check out their website at:  www.sprucehillpreserves.com.

Tea Blends at Green Aisle Groceries (Passyunk and Grays Ferry) - The brothers who own Green Aisle - Adam and Andrew Erace - continue to develop products with the Green Aisle label.  They have yet to falter.  The brothers new tea blends are composed of very creative combinations.  The pictured blend - "Moyamensing Grasshopper" - is made from organic mate', cocoa, mint, carob and vanilla.  Delicious tea and packaging that appeals to our home neighborhood pride.  These two stores are special.  Yes, they are "grocery" stores, but they are aimed at those of us who "want to know where our food comes from".  I love to shop at Green Aisle. You will too.

Wyndridge Farm Soda - If you have been following me over the past few years, you know that I have gradually removed almost all processed foods, Kraft products, and a host of other "bad" stuff from my diet.  I waited a long time to part ways with my two a day Pepsi (regular) habit, but it's been out of my life for some time now.  Once in awhile, I'll treat myself to an Italian soda and I am always on the look out for local sodas.  I am also a Cream Soda addict.  Nothing goes with a good sandwich like a delicious cream soda, in my opinion.  How wonderful that we now have Wyndridge Farm Soda.  The contents are simple:  real vanilla beans, cane sugar, and filtered water.  Just about perfect. Produced in York, PA and available at Fair Foods Farmstand.

Local Honey - I picked up the Honey pictured at Green Aisle Grocery on Passyunk.  We are very lucky to have a number of folks tending hives - sometimes on the roofs of restaurants and private homes - and producing  real, pure honey.  There's also a big health benefit to anyone with allergies to eating honey that was produced in your geographic area.  The honey helps build resistance to the allergens. And we need those bees too!  It's a win/win delicious situation.


This Blog will continue to highlight our local riches in 2015.  Let me know of your favorites in the area.  Let's support close to home first!  And, of course, "Know where your food comes from".

Recipe: "Stuffing" Soup Dumplings

Turkey Soup with Stuffing Dumplings

Let's talk about that most challenging of Thanksgiving leftovers:  Stuffing.  For some of you I understand that this is known as, "dressing".  In our home it's known as stuffing and a great deal of it is stuffed inside the turkey and cooked there.  It's Heaven. We love and always over do the stuffing.  We stuff the bird and we fill a couple of casserole dishes with the overflow.  How do we make this magical concoction?  Well, it's bread - torn into pieces and "staled" overnight; onions and celery sautéed in an obscene amount of butter; and thyme, salt and a huge amount of freshly ground pepper - all mixed together.  That's it.  The stuffing that cooks inside the turkey is transcendent.  The casserole  pan stuffing is also highly amazing especially with turkey gravy and/or stewed tomatoes (see last post) dolloped on it.

Please know that, of all of your Thanksgiving leftovers, stuffing freezes the best.  Small bags - especially if you can vacuum pack them - will hold up very well, and can be pulled out to recreate the dinner with the turkey I am hoping that you also have frozen.

But, you must - and I am not kidding here at all - you must save some of the leftover stuffing and make soup dumplings.

Now - if you think of yourself as a cook, and you hate waste, I am guessing that you have used all of the appropriate bones, etc. to create a nice big pot of Turkey Stock.  Excellent!  By the way if you haven't done it yet, try roasting or smoking the bones before you make the stock. Amazing flavor.

So, you have your stock - which also freezes well by the way - and you will be making some of your favorite turkey soup recipe. Go for it!  Just skip the noodles or rice and go with the stuffing dumplings instead.  You will thank me.

Recipe:  Turkey Stuffing Soup Dumplings

Note: If you can, hold off on adding the turkey meat until after the stuffing dumplings are floating.

Ingredients

2 cups of leftover stuffing
2 large eggs
6 tablespoons of all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Technique

In a bowl, whisk the eggs, flour, salt and pepper together until smooth
Add the stuffing and mix well until everything is well blended
Cover the bowl and reserve

Bring your soup to a simmer

As your soup is coming to a simmer, wet your hands and make small sized balls (about a tablespoon of the mixture,  maybe a bit smaller than a meatball) from the stuffing/egg mixture. Place the stuffing dumplings on a tray or pan until you make dumplings out of all of the mixture.

NOTE:  the moisture level of your stuffing will vary.  If the dumpling "dough"  is too soft to roll add flour a teaspoon at a time until it is firm enough to hold its shape.

Drop the dumplings into the simmering soup.  Cook until the dumplings float, about 3 - 4 minutes.  When the dumplings float,  add the turkey meat and taste to adjust seasonings.  You may want a bit more salt and pepper.

OK - Now - Stop what you are doing.  Ladle the soup and dumplings into a warm bowl, sit down, eat and make happy sounds!  Enjoy.

Please share this recipe.  I think folks end up tossing perfectly fine stuffing!  Thanks.

That is a fabulous, light and delicious soup dumpling!

With thanks to the Food Network and to the Beekman Boys who discovered this before I did!

Holiday Gift Tip: Four Great New Cookbooks

If you have cooks and food lovers in your life - or if you just want to treat yourself - read on!

I have recently become the grateful recipient of these four new publications and each one of them would make a wonderful gift.  All four would make an exceptionally wonderful gift!

All of these publications are much more than "cookbooks" - each one provides a very good read as well!

New Cookbooks that I am currently loving

 Eat:  The Little Book of Fast Food by Nigel Slater (Ten Speed Press, Berkeley)

Anything by Slater is an an enjoyable and educational read.  This is a wonderful collection of recipes for the home, with an emphasis on using what's on hand and what's in season.  Slater's genius is the manner in which he creates new combinations and still produces recipes that are ultimately do-able for the home cook, even the beginning cook.  If you love to cook, you will use this book - a lot.

Highlight Recipe for me so far:  "Root Vegetable Tangle"

One Good Dish by David Tanis (Artisan)

By now, most of us in the food loving world know that Tanis worked for years at Chez Panisse with Alice Waters and has authored two other books:  "A Platter of Figs" and "Heart of the Artichoke". That first book made devoted followers out of many of us.  Tanis also writes a weekly column for the New York Times called "City Kitchen".  He is a master of combining incredible flavor with amazing simplicity.  Here's another cookbook that I predict will get  a lot of use.  The beginning cook will learn a great deal about the ways in which very basic techniques can yield delicious dishes and the more experienced cook will have a number of "A-Ha" moments. 

Highlight Recipe for me so far:  "Save Your Life Garlic Soup". 

Prune by Gabrielle Hamilton (Random House)

If you have had the opportunity to read Hamilton's memoir, "Blood, Bones, and Butter", you know that that Chef Hamilton can write.   This newest offering from her is actually a very different kind of cookbook, ranging from highly technical recipes to incredibly easy preparation (i.e. Radishes, butter, and sea salt).  Prune, her restaurant and the topic of the book, is not dedicated to one particular type of cuisine - this for me,  makes the book even more interesting.  It has a very different layout from most cookbooks, with notes from Hamilton scribbled on the sides of pages, and with a whole section devoted to "family dinner" - the meal shared by the restaurant staff before service. As Julia Moskin points out in a New York Times review of the book (November 5, 2014), and I agree, it seems to be written with sous chefs in mind.  The recipes in Prune are not for the beginning cook, but for anyone who developed a moderate level of skill and confidence in the kitchen, it can be a private tutorial in the creation of some really good food.

Highlight Recipe for me so far:  "Cod in Saffron Broth with Leeks, Potatoes, and Savoy Cabbage"

America Farm to Table by Mario Batali with Jim Webster (Grand Central Life & Style)

It just so happens that we haven't learned or heard all that we need to know about the concept of Farm to Table!  In this, his 11th cookbook, Mario Batali takes us on a wonderful tour of farms, farmers, and producers, and introduces us to lots of wonderful recipes using their products.  A beginning cook could do well with this book - the only real challenge is recognizing that the farms and producers are all over the country.  So,  for example, an East Coast cook would have to understand that an Asparagus recipe from Southern California would need to wait until late Spring in order to be true to the message of the book.  The book is laid out and photographed beautifully and it is fun to read the side stories of growers and producers. 

Highlight Recipe for me so far:  "Apple Salad with Salami and Wine Marinated Mushrooms"

***Please Note:  if you are planning to purchase any or all of these great new books, consider your local, independent bookstore as your source.  Even if they do not have the book in stock, in most cases, they will be able to get it for you in the same amount of time it will take for it to be shipped to you. Thank You!***

Consider a Bit of Indulgence: Thanksgiving 2014

Pretty Farmers' Market Fall Fruit

Thanksgiving is always one of our favorite days of the year.  I would like it to be so for other folks, too. This little missive offers my thoughts and plans for holding onto Thanksgiving as a time to relax and gear up for the busy days to come.  Of course, it's all about the food. And, it's a four day weekend. And - here's the important part I ask you to please consider -  there are lots of times for relaxing.  Now, understand, we are not Black Friday shoppers.  We're all about shopping at small local business and buying gifts from local artisans whenever possible.  We start our shopping the week after the Thanksgiving holiday.  We don't decorate for Christmas on Thanksgiving weekend either.  The point is this is a good time to relax a bit!

Generally, we are away at our friends' farm for a few days of the holiday - and usually when we return we are inclined to hold off on decorating, doing a tree, and definitely shopping.  Both of us grew up decorating the tree on Christmas Eve and it is still what we prefer, although generally now we start a day or two before the 'Eve.

As it turns out, this year we are not traveling, but we are nursing one of our dogs after major spinal surgery.  As we took stock of the situation, and our limitations regarding not leaving the pup home too long by himself, and who among family and friends were doing what, we decided to go ahead and have some fun with the situation. We're pretty good at that.  Frankly, 2014 taught us nothing if not how to roll with the punches!

So, to put it bluntly, we are going to be a bit selfish. And, if you at all can, please consider doing it too! We are planning a treat filled long relaxing weekend here at our urban homestead.  We're starting out on this path with our Thanksgiving dinner for two (I know.  It's not very often we get to do this either, but since it fell in our lap, why not?).  We have a fresh Heirloom Turkey on order from a local farmer.  And I ordered a smaller organic turkey that I will be smoking on Friday (sliced smoked turkey in the freezer? Why yes, thank you).  We've ordered Cape May salt oysters and a small tin of caviar for appetizers.  From there, we go totally traditional.  We'll do the simple stuffing we both grew up with - made by our grandmothers -  bread, butter, celery, onion, tons of sage and thyme, and lots of ground black pepper and cooked inside the bird.  Crudite' tray?  Of course! Green bean casserole?  Absolutely.  Except it will be made with green beans we grew ourselves and fresh local mushrooms.  Yes, we are making cranberry relish from fresh cranberries, but we also have a can of jellied cranberry for sandwiches - as it just has to be.  Stewed tomatoes, pan gravy, buttermilk mashed potatoes and cole slaw rounds out the menu items for Thursday.   And of course, some amazing sweet potato pie with whipped cream for dessert.

After a very busy, hard working year during which we dealt with a number of unexpected challenges, we've decided it's time for us to engage in a little indulgence.  It's time to sit back and enjoy foods familiar to us all of our lives.  It's also time  - and this will be a challenge - for us to "go off of the grid" for a few days, too.  I shall report on how well that went, I promise!

Please understand that I offer all of this because I know that, for many folks, Thanksgiving is the first of many stressful, busy, demanding days that go on until January 1st.  I sincerely hope that you consider letting go of some of that and slow it down -  if just for this glorious weekend.  I understand the issues of shopping for kids and having to host family and all that goes with that.  But that said, we all need to be better at saying, "No", and taking a little time to enjoy home, hearth and the power of a rested us.  The holidays will be so much more enjoyable, and so much more relaxing,  if the "makers" in the family aren't exhausted and burnt out by the time it arrives.

And, for sure, whatever you do, and however you celebrate this wonderful holiday, don't forget to do something to share your blessings with those that are still waiting for their blessings.  I promise you, knowing that you were able to do something for others will make your holiday even more enjoyable.

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!

NOTE:  A suggestion, not a recipe.  My late father in law insisted on stewed tomatoes at every Thanksgiving dinner.  We make them ourselves.  They are totally easy to make.  Now the point of having stewed tomatoes -  I understand, not a "usual" dish on the Thanksgiving table -  is to make Irish Pizza, which is that wonderful basic turkey stuffing, topped with stewed tomatoes.  Think I'm crazy?  Try it!  You will thank me.

Recipe: Deep Fried Brussels Sprouts with Caesar Dressing

This is one of the best ways I have found to use brussels sprouts - which are very popular in our home - it is both delicious and addictive.  And really, except for the usual clean up post deep frying, it is relatively easy - and did I mention delicious and addictive!?

Recipe:  Deep Fried Brussels Sprouts with Caesar Dressing

This could feed 4 as a side dish.  That said, two of us ate more than half of it as a side with some pasts.

Ingredients

For the Brussels Sprouts

One pound of medium brussels sprouts, halved

Three cups of regular olive oil, or whatever oil you like to use for frying.  I used a 1/2 and 1/2 mixture of regular olive oil and canola oil.

A heavy pot, like a Dutch Oven; a deep fryer; or a fry pot with a basket.

For the Caesar Dressing

NOTE:  This is the basic caesar dressing used in our home.  Whatever your favorite recipe is, use it.
I do, however,  recommend a caesar dressing.  The combination of the the tartness and saltiness of the dressing on the fried sprouts is amazing.

One "Coddled" egg - put an egg into boiling water and remove it immediately after one minute.  Let the egg cool
1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil
One clove of garlic, minced
Three to six anchovy filets, minced - the amount depends on how much you like anchovies; I used three
One half of a fresh lemon
1/4 cup of freshly grated parmesan cheese
One dash of Worchestershire sauce
Freshly ground black pepper

Technique for the Dressing

In a mason jar with a lid, shake together the extra virgin olive oil, the chopped anchovies, and the minced garlic.  Shake it very well.
Break the coddled egg into the jar and squeeze the lemon over the egg.  Shake very well - until the mixture is emulsified.
Add the parmesan, worchestershire sauce, and pepper and shake a bit more.

ADDITIONS:  based on some of the recipes that I read, I added one tablespoon of good red wine vinegar and one teaspoon of chopped, rinsed capers to the dressing.

Technique for the Brussels Sprouts

Get the oil very hot; I like to test it with a leaf to see if it will sizzle.
Add some of the halved brussels sprouts - do NOT overcrowd the pot.  Continue to watch the frying sprouts.  When they are browned and seem to be floating on the top of the oil, remove them with a strainer and put them onto paper towels or brown paper to drain.
Start the next batch.  When the fried brussels sprouts are drained sufficiently, put them into a bowl.
Continue this process until all of the brussels sprouts are fried and drained and in the bowl.

Give the dressing another good shake and pour over the brussels sprouts.  Toss well to dress all of the sprouts.

These can be served hot or at room temperature.  They are also wonderful late at night when eaten cold by the light of the refrigerator!  Enjoy.

Brussels Sprouts Heaven1

Storing Kitchen Staples: Part Two

The last time I blogged about the topic of maintaining  a well stocked pantry,  it was in reference to oils, vinegars, and other liquids.  This time let's take a look at some of the other items that we all store for long term periods.

Sugar:  store granulated sugar in an airtight container.  Basically it is long lasting, but you want to avoid moisture from compromising it and/or critters from taking up residence in it.

Honey and Molasses:  both should be kept in your pantry and not in your refrigerator.  They, too, are long lasting.

In contrast, maple syrup (and I refer here to real maple syrup, not the "Aunt" or other high fructose corn syrup blends masquerading as maple syrup!) can be stored in the pantry - until it is opened.  Then it's time to move it into the refrigerator  Real maple syrup has no preservatives and can begin to grow molds and bacteria after opening.   Note:  If for some reason your honey has been stored in the refrigerator and has started to crystalize, open the jar and put it in a pan filled with a inch or two of water and heat it for a bit.

Brown Sugar:  the biggest issue we all run into with this is that it hardens into big clumps - no matter how it is stored.  A long term way to avoid clumping can be provided by a product called a "Brown Sugar Bear", a small terra cotta bear which is dampened and then added to the bag of brown sugar. I store brown sugar in a relatively air tight container and I still find myself using a baggie and a meat tenderizer when I go to use some of it.  An option that I have been enjoying for the past few years is to substitute commercial brown sugar with  "sugar in the raw" when I can.  It is basically a light brown sugar known as Turbinado sugar.  It does not clump.

Baking Powder and Baking Soda:  These have a shelf life of about six months and should be kept away from moisture.  Do keep an eye on their dates because your baking recipes will be disappointing if your powder or soda have lost effectiveness.

Yeast (dry):  the best bet for storing yeast, whether active or instant, is the freezer.

Flour:  figure on a year of shelf life for all - purpose flour.  I pour this flour into a glass jar with a tight cap and keep it in the pantry.  Whole wheat flour will be fine for about a year, BUT,  it should be kept in the freezer.  Most experts say that cornmeal should also be stored in the freezer, but since I tend to use it pretty regularly, I find that it's fine when I store it in the refrigerator.  "De-bag" (is that a word?) both whole wheat and cornmeal into good, zip lock bags prior to storing.

Bay Leaves, Nuts and Seeds:  all will keep much better and longer if stored in the freezer.  In particular, pine nuts - which are usually pretty expensive - go bad very quickly if not stored in the freezer. Again, store each in a good zip lock freezer bag.

Butter and Eggs.  These are two items, although certainly not "long term" in the way the other items are,  that can invoke a lot of discussion and debate among food folks.  Eggs:  In places other than the U.S.,  eggs are generally not refrigerated.  One of the reasons is that they tend to be fresher than the eggs many Americans buy in chain supermarkets.  The eggs they sell may already be up to two months old by the end of the "sell by" date.  If the supermarket is your only access to eggs, three to five weeks in the refrigerator tops would be the best storage practice.  I buy our eggs from local farmers.  Especially in the colder months, I like to store them on the counter top in a ceramic "egg crate".  I use eggs a great deal, but you have to decide on your own usage patterns and store your eggs accordingly.  Butter is a very absorbent item.  It can quickly pick up flavors and odors from other items in the refrigerator.  I have been making my own butter about every other week for a few years.  I store "rounds" of this butter in the freezer.  I also purchase local farm butter and cut it into "stick" equivalents - this makes this butter easier to measure to use for baking and recipes. With that said, I love to keep at least one "Butter Keeper" on the countertop.  These are great inventions - they are French, I believe - they keep your butter fresh and you always have softened butter at hand.  I especially appreciate that with my morning toast and jam!  You pack your butter into a cup on one piece of the keeper and invert it into a bit of water in the other piece.

With a little bit of attention to detail and an awareness of the dates of purchase of pantry items a successful pantry can easily be maintained.  And a well maintained pantry will definitely make life easier, especially when putting together week night meals.  It is worth a bit of tending from time to time.  You will be glad you did!

Storing Kitchen Staples, Part One

A Reminder From 1917

All of us who like to cook have cabinets and drawers and other spots chock full of spices, oils, vinegars and the like.  These pantry items - or kitchen staples - are so important to our culinary creations, so we should try to keep them as fresh as we possibly can.  The great thing about these staples is that they are there when you need them; the challenging thing about them is that you rarely buy one of them and then use it all up for one meal.

Heat and light are great things.  They are also great destroyers of kitchen staples.

In the next few posts, I will share what sorts of storage - as well as how to test for freshness - works best for a number of categories of kitchen staples.  

Let's start with oils, vinegars, soy sauces, and vanilla.

You know how on the cooking shows, the cooks have all of their oils and vinegars displayed beautifully on a lovely - usually stainless steel shelf above their six burner, turbo stove top?  Yeah - don't do that!  You'll be killing off those items faster than you can say, "Bam!".  

Here are some basic rules of thumb about these particular staples and the best ways to preserve them.

1.  Olive Oil - Once it is opened the common rule is to consider it at top form for about three months.  Always keep olive in a dark pantry closet or cabinet.  Unopened and stored correctly olive oil will maintain it's goodeness for up to a year.  To test olive oil for freshness, heat a teaspoon or so in a skillet.  If you detect a rancid odor, toss it, it's done.  Lastly, resist the large, usually well decorated cans of olive oil unless you really use a lot of olive oil.  The short shelf life makes the lower price not worth it in the end.

2.  Vinegar - this is one staple that has a very long shelf life.  The high percentage of acetic acid in most vinegars will prevent any harmful bacteria from taking up residence. It is a good idea to also store vinegar in a cabinet, away from direct heat.  If you have sediment beginning to build up in vinegar, just strain it out. It will be fine with or without the sediment. 

3.  Other Oils - Canola, Corn, Grapeseed, Peanut, and Vegetable oils can be stored in your pantry.  Sesame and Walnut oils must be stored in your refrigerator.

4.  Soy Sauce - if it is pasturized soy sauce, you can store it in your pantry closet.  If it is unpasturized, keep it in the refrigerator. 

5.  Vanilla - this flavoring has a very long shelf life.  If you make it yourself, and I highly recommend that you do, just remember to remove the vanilla bean when it has "cured" and has full vanilla flavor.  The beans, if left in the liquid, sometimes break down a bit.  Whether home or commercially made, vanilla should always be tightly capped and stored away from light and heat.

Next Time:  Flours and Dry Herbs